Episode #41 - Kathleen Squires, Wall Street Journal, Los Angeles Times, Food & Wine, Saveur

Michael (2:17): Hi, Kathleen, welcome to our show. 

Hanna (2:18): So happy to see you! 

Kathleen (2:19): Hi, you guys. Thank you so much for having me. 

Hanna (2:25): You wear a lot of hats and you are an accomplished writer, award winning author, as well as a documentary producer. What are the common elements that links all of these things for you? 

Kathleen (2:35): I would say the common element is good, still storytelling. And in addition to just playing good storytelling, it's exciting to have different ways to tell a good story. Um, it's good for my brain. It's good for the story itself to have different media to tell it. Um, for example, in documentary storytelling, there's so much more you can do with archival footage, interviews and see from the way that someone is speaking, um, that just doesn't show up on paper. And in books, for example, you have the chance to dive deeper into so many topics, much deeper than print media, like newspapers and magazines. 

Michael (3:29): How did you get into professional writing to begin with? Did you have a Eureka moment when you knew you were going to be a writer? 

Kathleen (3:33): I always knew I was going to be a writer. I was the kid who loved to do book reports. So, I knew from an early age that I was going to end up writing some way, somehow. So that was my natural path in college. I studied English, literature and writing. And from there, I went into book publishing and was involved in book publishing for nine years, before I took the leap and decided to do my own writing instead of working on other people's writing. So, that was my path. And from there, it was building blocks from, um, finding my interests and really focusing on them. 

Hanna (4:17): As a freelance writer, you write for a lot for media outlets, but today we want to talk specifically about the Wall Street Journal, where you often contribute to the Off-Duty section, which is actually one of our favorite parts of the paper. So can you explain to our listeners what the section is about and also what do you cover? 

Kathleen (4:40): The Off-Duty section is basically I think the essential weekend section, because it really covers what you're doing when you're not on the job. So that involves food, travel, fashion, gadgets, shopping, cocktails, all manner of stuff that you might be doing on the weekends. I was focused on food. I do some travel for the section, as well. So over the years I've done features. And one day I pitched a very complicated story to my editor, who's fantastic, and she said to me, this is not a story. 

And that fear in my heart went, oh my god, and then she said, it's a column! Because I was kind of over trying to cram too much into that one page format. So, from our discussion on that, she thought it was definitely a multifaceted story that could go on and on and on. And that's how my butchery column, Cutting Class started. And, yeah, one of my main focuses right now, is through the column teaching readers how they can do some home butchery themselves.

Michael (5:52): So you did a recent story on Eric Wareheim. And we've been reading his cookbook, Foodheim, a culinary adventure.

Hanna (6:05): We love the book and we love the title and we love Eric. 

Michael (6:07): And just like you, Eric wears a lot of hats, being a comedian, actor, writer, director, musician, and now author. So can you tell our listeners how this particular story came?

Kathleen (6:18): Sure. Another column that I contribute to is called In My Kitchen in the Off-Duty section. And in that column, we focus sometimes on professional chefs, but in the last few years, we've opened it up to other avid cooks and they might include actors, singers, writers, poets, you name it, artists. So, Eric, we thought was perfect for the column. Not only because his cookbook was coming out, but because off-duty was doing a section that focused strictly on television. So, it was kind of the perfect timing and we love his quirky sense of humor, but he's a really serious cook. And I thought I found that really refreshing to learn about him. And I think within my kitchen column, it's kind of a very straight forward format where the subject talks about their favorite tools and techniques and ingredients, but you learn a lot about the person, just from those simple questions and what's in their kitchen. 

Michael (7:30): His love of fish sauce was quite surprising.

Hanna (7:35): I really enjoy watching Eric on Instagram. And he's so funny, hilarious at the same time, as you say, he's a serious cook and it's very entertaining. So, um, Just like Eric, who is leveraging Instagram's so well to promote his book. What is your strategy for your social media? How do you use it for your work?

Kathleen (7:50): I use social media to share my work, to promote my work, to make people aware of what's out there. Also, to shout out a great restaurant or bar or dish. Sometimes when I'm cooking at home to inspire people. And I think that's, especially on Instagram there's such an inspirational and aspirational aspect to it. 

Michael (8:19):Do you ever use it for research purposes to suss out story ideas?

Kathleen (8:22):Yes, definitely. Well, I'm always scrolling through it and especially following people who have great food shots. I want to know what's new on menus and sometimes, I'm not always aware. There might be a chef out in California who is just put something new on the menu and they're showcasing it. And I say, wow, I'm doing a story about that and that looks perfect. 

One example is, I'm doing a Wellington piece and I saw a beautiful beef Wellington on Instagram from a chef who's opening a new restaurant in California, and I got in touch with him and it's perfect because he is opening a new restaurant. Otherwise, I don't think I would have been aware that he was doing it and that maybe it's on the road to a comeback. 

Michael (9:13): So speaking of cooking, uh, you also had a great story on how to cook steak, a subject very close to my heart. And you had some great insights from professional butchers. 

So how did you choose these folks? 

Kathleen (9:13): Yeah. So usually in my cutting class column, I focus on one specific butcher, but this was great because I got to reach out to butchers across the country. So I first, word of mouth, really still that old fashion word of mouth, I asked a lot of the butchers that I know, and I've spoken with, ‘Hey, who do you know? Not in New York or who are some of the people's work that you really admire?’ And so, I followed many of their suggestions. Also, Google is your friend. I did a lot of googling ‘best butchers across the country.’ I asked a lot of questions of people I knew in the areas who they go to. 

So, that's primarily the way. And then, I think that the chef or restaurant has to think of why you, why your dish, and why now?  How is it different from what other people are doing?  I'm always looking for geographical & cultural diversity. I really make an effort to make sure I'm including people outside of my own world that I’m using a butcher in Colorado or Seattle, and also cultural diversity. I'm always on the look out for butchers of color and people who are doing different styles of butchery, which I think is a topic that is really interesting. 

Hanna (10:45):I know a lot of talented chefs and culinary experts who want to be part of your stories, given you know, the importance of the Wall Street Journal and a history of it. So how do some chefs get so lucky to be featured? 

Kathleen (10:45): Well, travel is one thing. So, my list of restaurants and where I'm eating always takes priority on any trip that I take. So, whenever I'm visiting anywhere, I'm always interested in who's leading the restaurant conversation? Who's cooking what? Where are the spots that I should be looking at? 

So, that's the first thing I'm always reading, always staying on top of the conversation, not only on social media, but in publications. Also, I mean, if they have PR, if they reach out to me, it's really great and effective, especially if, ‘hey I might be going to Cincinnati in four months. So, I'm just going to keep this on file. And when I go I'll do a search in my email and say, ‘that's right, I had somebody reach out to me about a restaurant in Cincinnati that I should go to. So, even though I might not have answered right away, I always keep those things of interest on file for the times and when I can visit in person. 

Hanna (12:09): How do you choose the topic to write about?

Kathleen (12:13): Well, I think, the way I choose a topic, it is about being out and about. What am I seeing popping up on menus all the time? What am I seeing trend wise in restaurants? What are people doing? But, also I think that paying attention to the conversation on things like Twitter and Instagram, what are people talking about? That's so important. What's the hot topic? And even, what's the ingredient that people keep talking about and why? 

I like telling the stories of why something is happening. Not just, that its happening and why it's happening, and then, once those ideas start to also press releases can be super helpful. Um, if I am thinking about a story on, well, let's say summer squash and somebody sends me a press release or menus, I think menus are so important to publicists. Always please include menus. I love reading menus, so I'm always going to read them, but just seeing certain things pop up over and over again, and then I'm always interested to know why. So, I think that a press release in combination with a good menu will cause me to be intrigued and ask more questions. 

Hanna (13:41): So for our listeners around the globe, can you share a few practical tips on how chefs can pitch their stories? So what are the top three things they have to keep in mind? 

Kathleen (13:50): I think, and this is actually what we use as writers too. Why am I the person to write this story? How your food tells your stories. Why is it topical? So, asking those questions and how does this tell your story as a restaurant or as a chef?  So that's the first thing is always thinking of the why's and why you. Pitches. I definitely want to know your background. What you're cooking.As I said, keep the emails as brief as you possibly can, as I tend to go through them very quickly. I get a ton of these emails, as a lot of writers and editors do. So, the faster you get to the point, the better. And, think about again, beyond, well, there's a new  chef or there's a new dish, that kind of stuff isn't what I do. Maybe somebody else who will be writing who has a column on the openings of restaurants. That's great for that person. I never write these days about restaurant openings or a chef change. 

So look at what I do. And make sure that you're targeting that specifically. Hey, ‘I'm a butcher and I'm doing this.’ I know that you have the butchery column. So being familiar with who you're pitching is super important. I know that a lot of people on your podcast have made that point, that it can't be made enough. 

Michael (15:39):Yes, exactly. So, looking ahead with the restaurant world and overall hospitality industry coming back, are there any specific topics or people you're going to be focused on? 

Kathleen (15:48):Well, I think we're still easing out of the pandemic right now and kind of hunkering down for winter, at least over here on the east coast. So, I think that home cooking is never going to go away. In fact, I think more people have honed their skills for home cooking during the lockdown part of the pandemic. So, I can, I'll continue to be writing and helping people with home cooking. Of course, butchers, butchery. I've always had a fascination about the connection between food and health. And I would like to do more of that. Before the pandemic, I did a story on food and your basic physical health, but also food and mental health and that connection.

And then at the very beginning of the pandemic, this was very timely, I did a story on the connection between food and sleep. I think a lot of people were losing sleep, as things started to get really weird. So, that was timely. So, I'll be exploring more of those stories, the connection on food and health. Any kind of for the “In My Kitchen’ column too, anything that's newsy that you peg to a piece of news. And again, a cook who's a little outside of the box is always great too. 

Hanna (17:21):As you know, we call our podcast hospitality forward. So in your opinion, which organization or person have you seen that is really innovating and moving the hospitality and travel industry forward?

Kathleen (17:30):I'm really excited in terms of restaurants, what ROAR is doing. Um, that's Restaurants Organizing, Advocating, and Rebuilding. And this is, uh, an organization that's actually led by my friend, Andrea Strong, she's the Executive Director and, um, what they're trying to do, it's new. And I know that they're looking at it in so many different ways of how to accomplish their goals, but then are focused on independent restaurants in New York City for now. I hope that they can set an example so that this can become a nationwide initiative, but they have been involved in employee relations. In establishing a health and wellness care, figuring out how to do that for restaurant workers, um, worker equity, um, there's, they've been giving out cash grants.They've sent around vans to restaurants to get, um, to get, uh, the workers vaccinated. Um, so, and they're also very involved in topics of community importance. So I'm super excited about what they're doing. And I hope that they will emerge as a real leader for the rest of the country.

Michael (18:57):And be great if they could scale up their work. And now for a lighter topic, if you had to choose one cocktail to share with your best buddy, or your hubby, Ronnie, what would it be and why? 

Michael (18:57):I love gin and I really love a good gin and tonic. And if one of my favorite gin and tonics happens to be in my neighborhood, it's over at Katanna Kitten. And I know you're familiar with it, Michael. The shisho leaf gin and tonic over there, I think is just, it takes a basic drink to another level with that herbaceous flavor of the shiso leaf. It's so refreshing, but it's still, it's something that I'll drink in the summer, but I will drink it in the winter. I'll drink it anytime because of the strong flavors. 

Michael (19:50):All right. So in terms of, uh, your travel plans, uh, any dream destinations for you and Ronnie? 

Kathleen (19:55):Yes. Well, we had a dream deferred when, um, before the pandemic we had elaborate plans for a trip to Vietnam and we had to cancel. So I'm looking forward to doing that trip, probably, probably won't be able to do it until summer of 2022, but that's definitely a destination I'm looking forward to and I want to get around and see friends. I want to see my friends in London. I want to, um, go out to see my friends in Oregon. So I think that's really important. I think we all have to really recognize the power of in-person. Hanging out with your friends in person right during this time. And then I'd love to just go somewhere super, super far. Um, like maybe the maladies or somewhere that was kind of hard for me to get to because you only live one life. And if I don't do it now, I don't know when I would.